"Chablis" with the strongest sense of iodine
The second generation Julien's biodynamic challenge began with a fight with his father, who strongly opposed him, saying, ``There is no way biodynamics will succeed in Chablis.'' It is now the largest biodynamic domaine in Burgundy.
The original taste of Chablis is iodine
In 1973, "Jean Marc Brocard" started from 0.3ha. Currently, the company's vineyards have increased to 200ha. A large field for a family run domaine. Chablis has many large-scale producers. However, many have vineyards in 'Portlandian soil' that were expanded during the AOC expansion in the late 1970s. Jean-Marc Brocard has a brewery in the village of Play in the south instead of the northern "Portlandian soil" and owns fields only in the surrounding Kimmeridian soil.
“The original Chablis is born from the Kimmelidian soil, which was formed at the bottom of the sea during the Jurassic period 150 million years ago. The strong mineral of iodine derived from kimmeridian is Chablis and uniqueness that Beaune does not have.”
Almost all of the fields they own are located in Chablis before expansion. Villages are also made from 100% Kimmeridian soil fields.
“In the 1980s, our Chablis did not sell well in France. The iodine was too strong. The first to appreciate it was the British. Surrounded by the sea, they were accustomed to iodine and wanted minerals.”
Today, there are many Chablis, such as Burgundy Blanc, with plenty of fruit on the front and no iodine. "Brocard" has the original iodine feeling of Chablis.
Village is also Kimmeridian
The current head of the family, Julien, puts the most effort into neither the excellent Premier Crus nor the expensive Grand Crus. The standard village "Saint Clair".
“For us, the Village Sainte-Clair is more important than the Grand Cru. I want to spread the true taste of Chablis, not expensive Chablis.”
AOC Chablis is often made from purchased grapes, but "Brocard" Chablis "Sainte Clair" is all from our own vineyards. After harvesting in the field adjacent to the brewery, preparation can be done immediately. In addition, AOC Chablis usually uses grapes of "Oxfordian soil" in the northern part of Chablis. Grapes are cheap because the soil is strong and the yields are high.
"Sainte Clair is located in the south of the left bank of the Selan River, which flows through the center of Chablis, and is a field exposed to the late Kimmeridian soil of the same era as the Grand Cru. It's not as steep as the Grand Cru, but it's exactly the same soil.”
Of particular note is the Sainte Clair Vieille Vigne. Biodynamics are used in an 80-year-old plot in Sainte-Clair.
“The roots of an 80-year-old tree grow vertically over 30m, so good results can be obtained even in years with little rainfall. In addition, the vigor of the tree is weak, the water content is low, and the degree of concentration increases, resulting in a heavy wine.”
Overwhelming concentration and kimmeridian minerals. And the high acidity that comes from the low PH enhances the aging power of this wine, so you can enjoy it in excellent condition even when it is back vintage.
Aiming for 100% biodynamic
Biodynamic, which was started in 1998 by the second-generation Julian, is a major change in Brocard. Father "Jean Marc" was strongly opposed at that time, but now 80% of the field conversion has been completed starting with "Boissonneuse".
“Alice et Olivier de Meur also worked at Brocard. We have been promoting biodynamics in cooperation with them.”
However, even in 2012 when there was a lot of rain and in 2013 when the weather was unseasonable, no chemicals were used, so the production volume fell to less than half. Of course, sales will be less than half. Managing a domaine is hard work.
“We don’t buy medicines, we make them ourselves. The individuality of each field comes out more clearly due to biodynamics.”
"Julien" is also active in introducing a woof (egg-shaped fermenter), changing the tailoring, and extending the fermentation period. Fermented and aged in concrete Houffes, the Grand Crus Les Pleuses are strongly affected by the lees and emphasize their complexity.
“The changes in Chablis Sainte Claire VV are easy to understand. Firm grip, Chablis-like iodine feeling is very strong. Even finer and denser texture. We weren't doing anything wrong."
Vaud Vey has a harsh environment with an east-facing slope of 52 degrees, so it has a cooler feel than Montman, and is characterized by minerals and acidity rather than fruit, and is the most vertical. Voloran is changed to obtain a meaty fruit taste. Montman became able to feel a strong sense of iodine in the ripe fruit.